Sustainable Materials
For materials to be sustainable they are required to be either recycled or responsibly manufactured. If the method of obtaining natural materials involves the theft of natural resources, it cannot be considered sustainable. The production and processing is a very important defining factor as to whether an initial sustainable fabric remains sustainable. During manufacture, raw materials are processed by weaving, knitting, and utilising dyes. Many natural materials are blended with unnatural fibres, bleached, coloured, or treated with harmful chemicals to keep fabrics from creasing. If these processes and treatments have taken place to natural fibres, they are no longer sustainable.
General Sustainable Materials
Organic Bamboo
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 8/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 9/10
Other names It might be called are bamboo linen, bamboo lyocell or Monocel®. Bamboo grows very quickly, it has been recorded that some species can grow 35 inches in a day, and, it regrows from it’s own root system after it has been harvested. It absorbs five times more CO2 and produces more oxygen than plants that are similar.
While it is included in this category, it can have some unsustainable factors depending on how it is grown, harvested and processed.
For bamboo to be a sustainable fabric it requires organic certification, this would mean that the plant was grown sustainably and the land it was grown in was obtained without destruction. As long as the production method is done in a considerate way, bamboo is a sustainable material.
ECONYL®
Origins - 7/10 Method of Obtaining - 7/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - No Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 7.5/10
In July 2021, Aquafil introduced ECONYL® and launched an online store where products made from this regenerated nylon were available to purchase. ECONYL® is made from pre consumer waste material, old carpets, plastics and fishing nets that would otherwise be heading to landfill. It is collected, cleaned and the nylon is extracted and processed. It is created using a closed loop process where there is significantly less waste produced and fewer resources used in comparison to nylon production. It also has the potential to be continuously recycled without losing quality.
‘For every 10,000 tons of ECONYL® raw material, it saves 70,000 barrels of crude oil and avoids 65,100 tonnes of CO2 eq. emissions in comparrison to general nylon production, reducing the global warming impact by up to 90%’
When ECONYL® is washed, it can shed microplastics that ultimately end up in our oceans. For this to be avoided, use a washing bag that keeps microplastics contained.
Organic Hemp
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 8/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 9/10
Hemp is a low maintenance and fast growing plant. It needs little water and doesn’t require pesticides, it also returns nutrients to the soil. Hemp has many uses and is one of the oldest fibres used for clothing, it’s breathable, durable and suitable for those with sensitive skin, it also softens with wear and washing. The process to turn this plant into material involves separating the fibres of the stalk from the bark and then spinning these together into thread that can be woven, this involves no chemicals. After it has been woven it may be subject to treatment or dye, as long as this is done responsibly or not at all, the outcome is a fairly low impact material. Similarly to bamboo, the sustainability of hemp is drastically changed if the growth, harvest and processing involves harmful chemicals and land destruction.
Organic Linen
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 8/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 8.5/10
Linen is an ancient fabric, it’s acknowledged origin was in Egypt around 10,000 years ago, however there is evidence from prehistoric caves in Georgia that suggests it may have been in use as a textile about 36,000 years ago. It is a versatile fabric that is durable, breathable and softens with wear and washing. It is made from flax, which is typically a low maintenance plant that doesn’t require fertiliser. Flax is also known to require little water to grow and is used as a rotation crop as it enhances soil quality. The production of linen involves separating the fibres from the plant and turning this into yarn, this is then woven into fabric, generally ranging from ivory to taupe in colour. While this entire process from plant to fibre is sustainable, organic linen makes up less than 1% of linen produced in Europe. As with other sustainable materials, linen can also be in the category of unstainable materials if polluting chemicals are involved in processing.
TENCEL™ Modal
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 7/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 7.5/10
Modal was created to imitate the properties of cotton, it was developed in Japan in the early 1950s. In 1965 Lenzing, an Austrian company, released “high wet modulus” to the market, this was the predecessor to modal today. After further development, the first speciality fibre was released in 1975. There are other companies producing modal, however it has varying levels of sustainability, sometimes it can be unclear and misleading. Although it will still be classed as a natural, biodegradable fabric, the processing may have incorporated unsustainable practices. Lenzing is transparent about TENCEL™ Modal production, it is still chemically processed using N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide amongst others, but Lenzing is the first wood based producer of fibre with aprroved scientific climate targets. “TENCEL™ Modal fibers are extracted from naturally grown beech wood by an environmentally responsible integrated pulp-to-fiber process, which is self-sufficient in energy and recovers co-products from component parts of the wood.” The process is self sufficient and creates a biodegradable, compostable material.
TENCEL™ Lyocell
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 7/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 7.5/10
TENCEL™ lyocell fibres can be blended with other textile fibres to improve their functionality and aesthetics, it is a strong, absorbent material that is soft to the touch. TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers, in a similar way to TENCEL™ modal, are extracted from sustainably sourced wood and use a closed loop process in production which recovers water and 99.8% of the solvent, reducing environmental impact.
"TENCEL™ Lyocell is certified by TÜV Austria Belgium NV as biodegradable and compostable under industrial, home, soil and marine conditions, thus they can fully revert back to nature.”
Organic Cotton
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 7/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 8/10
Organic cotton is grown naturally without the use of harmful chemicals and is generally watered by rain, if that is not possible, the water required per kilo of organic cotton lint is still less than 10% of the water used for standard cotton. Like many plants grown naturally for their fibres, the chemicals used during processing and how responsible the chemical disposal is, can determine the materials sustainability.
It is important for organic cotton to be GOTS certified, the plants are sprayed only with natural proteins (B1) to protect them from insect damage instead of damaging pesticides. GOTS certification means that strict regulations are followed from plant to fibre, including wastewater treatment, soil health maintenance and fair working conditions. The processing of raw cotton begins with intensive cleaning which is done with machine aid. After the cotton is dried, it is filtered to remove debris and seeds. It needs to be essentially stripped as cotton is naturally water repellent. It is then turned into yarn, before it is blended and cleaned further. The material is then put through a machine that prepares the fibres to be spun. GOTS certified organic cotton is a durable and versatile material that is natural, sustainable and biodegradable.
Piñatex
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - No Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 8/10
Piñatex is a sustainable alternative to leather made from pineapple waste (a natural food by-product), it was developed by Dr. Carmen Hijosa in 2017. It uses the smaller leaves that grow on the outside of the fruit that would usually be discarded. To create a product that is similar to leather from leaves, it must go through processing. First, the leaves are separated into fibres and sundried, once dry, a corn-based polylactic acid is applied and the fibres take on a new texture, similar to felt. To achieve a strong material that is water resistant the material is then dyed and coated with a water based PU resin, both are environmentally safe. The entire production in comparison to leather and general synthetic leather is dramatically less harmful to the environment, less water is required, chemicals and waste are regulated and less greenhouse gas emissions are released. While Piñatex is not biodegradable, it is still 95% natural.
Reclaimed (Deadstock)
Origins - 6/10 Method of Obtaining - 6/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - Yes/No Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 6/10
This isn’t entirely sustainable as the materials are varied, but by purchasing or using reclaimed materials it does keep them out of landfills. It is mostly made up of excess, refused, unsold or leftover fabric from manufacturers, it highlights overproduction, this is sometimes intentional as it can be sold at a discounted rate but still with a high profit.
Vintage reclaimed materials are sustainable, these fabrics are already in existence and generally, when initially created the manufacturing processes would have been less harmful to the environment.
Recycled Fabrics
Origins - 6/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 8/10 Biodegradable - Yes/No Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 8/10
Most likely the most sustainable option as no new resources, water, energy or chemical processes have been used, although these items would have had an environmental impact initially, it prevents further destruction by making use of old clothing and recycled fabrics. It also has a positive impact in reducing waste from new materials being created and the reduction of clothing items and fabric going to landfill. While the materials may be varied and some unstainable initially, it is still the better option.
Recycled Polyester
Origins - 5/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - No Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 6.5/10
Synthetic polyester is used extensively in the clothing industry, it is strong, flexible, easy to look after and inexpensive. The impact on the environment however is detrimental. It is created from fossil fuels, the production involves the use of chemicals and machines, it is polluting and has a high water consumption. Recycled polyester is made from post consumer plastic (polyethylene terephthalate) known as PET. The process makes use of clean plastic turned into pellets, PET is not single use and can be recycled over and over again. The pellets are sorted by colour and transformed into fibres through and extrusion and texturing process. These fibres can then be woven into material, occasionally blended with other fabrics. Recycled polyester should have OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification, this ensures the fibres do not contain harmful levels of restricted chemicals. While this material is positive in the way it aids in reducing waste to landfill it can release microplastics in washing and is not biodegradable.
Wool
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 6/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes/No Overall - 7.5/10
Wool is soft, insulating and versatile. To ensure the ethical practices of this material it is important to check for the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) or the ZQ wool certification. Although shearing is required for the health and wellbeing of the sheep and should be done to avoid issues with walking and grazing, this industry can be abusive. The ZQ wool certification and RWS regulate the wool sold under their names to ensure 'freedom from pain', as well as 'freedom from fear and distress'.
After shearing the wool is usually packed into large mesh bags and soaked/scoured in water before being washed with biodegradable detergents, harsh/toxic chemicals aren't generally applied due to the delicate nature of the material. Once the wool is completely clean and dry, it goes through the mechanical process of carding, this detagles and blends the fibres. It can then be spun into yarn to be woven.
Brewed Protein™
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 7/10 Processing - 7/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 8/10
Brewed Protein™ is a revised version of Spiber Group’s initial release of Qmonos™, Spiber is a Japanese company that utilises technology and science to research and develop interesting materials that are not harmful to the environment. Brewed Protein™ is a textile material made in a fermentation process using microorganisms with reneable plant-based ingredients, these are grown by farmers that implement sustainable practices. While manufacturing does require high energy usage the waste water from this material is treated. Based on studies, Brewed Protein™ production releases fewer greenhouse gases, uses less water and requires 97% less land use in comparison to similar materials. This material is developed to be soft like silk and extremely durable. Although protien based, these fibres do not use animal products and are certified vegan as well as being entirely biodegradable.
JUTE
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 8/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 9/10
Jute is a natural fibre obtained from jute plants. Jute grows at a fast rate with little maintenance and has a higher absorption rate of carbon dioxide than most trees. The process to turn this plant into material involves soaking the stems in water for over a week, after this period the fibres can be separated and cleaned and dried. Once dried these fibres are processed into yarn to be woven into materials, jute is typically a rough fibre but very strong and has many uses. It is a natural, sustainable and biodegradable material that is fairly low impact.
ABACA
Origins - 8/10 Method of Obtaining - 8/10 Processing - 8/10 Biodegradable - Yes Recyclable - Yes Ethical - Yes Overall - 9/10
Abaca fabric comes from the leaves of the abaca plant, it is a fruitless tree belonging to the banana plant family and can grow up to 22 feet tall. When planted with other crops it assists in biodiversity rehabilitation and reduces soil erosion. When the plant reaches maturity (generally after 4 years) the leaves are harvested. The plant is scraped to remove pulp before the fibres are extracted from the leaves. They are thoroughly combed and sorted, keeping course fibres and fine fibres separate before drying. Generally there is no mechanical processing involved, everything is done by hand. After the fibres have been dried, they are washed, this softens the material as well as cleanses. Once dried the fibres are invisibly knotted together to create strings and then woven. Usually after this stage, to smooth and stretch the fabric, it is rinsed in running water and flattened using wooden utensils, then polished to create a refined, soft fabric. If this material is dyed, this is done more often that not with natural colouring. Abaca is a sustainable fabric that is soft, durable and versatile. It is biodegradable and production is eco friendly with any waste from the fibres being turned into organic compost.