Transformational Reconstruction - TR Pattern Cutting

Fashion & Textiles

14 Mar

Shingo Sato is a couture designer who designs for private clients and teaches in both Milan and Tokyo specialising in pattern cutting style called TR. TR is an innovative pattern creation technique that is a combination of flat pattern cutting and three-dimensional paper folding and draping. Enabling a design to form through an experimental, artistic method. I was really lucky that Shingo Sato was teaching in the UK and was able to attend his pattern cutting class with 5 other students.

It was quite difficult to document everything digitally because I wanted to be present and try to learn as much as possible. I want to start with saying that Shingo Sato was so interesting to speak to, so patient, friendly and humble. I was expecting a demonstration for us to then try the pattern alone, but, he was really involved and shared so much of his knowledge, even going over the class time to show us how to create an additional pattern.

He began the lesson by asking us our names and our level of study, and then showed us toiles of some very complicated looking designs, explaining that once you know the pattern cutting process they would be a lot simpler to complete than expected. Then we were shown the toile that we were each going to make during the lesson. We repeated each step after he demonstrated it and once we had finished each stage, he would make sure none of us were struggling.

The process enables you to look at fabric and fabric construction differently. By combining flat pattern making and 3D pattern making in this way allows different shapes and unusual forms to be created and definitely opens your mind in regards to design possibilities. The process to the end result is unexpected, it was fascinating and I definitely want to develop my pattern cutting skills and incorporate this into my future collections.

SHINGO SATO “I consider myself to be a patternmaker-designer. To design zero waste garments you need to be able to design as you make the pattern and not just in response to a design. Design occurs in many places but it does not occur as a sketch of the exterior of the garment, but in the development of the pattern. For most companies it does not make economic sense to invest time (and therefore money) into the development of a design if the likely outcome is not known. The speed of change driven by the monetary benefits of Economies of Scale and consumer are demanding, so while the argument for which comes first generally descends into a chicken and egg debate, the problem is a very real and immediate one for fashion companies. A problem they solve by repeating and copying existing styles. It should be no surprise that this is the foundation of the contemporary fashion system.”